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Service lags at times, and the food is less stunning than it was a decade ago. Houston's most admired restaurant may be resting on its many laurels.
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New SouthwesternĬAFE ANNIE, 1728 Post Oak Blvd. Granted, you have to endure minimal ambience - the fern-bar, hotel look. John Sheely is one of the region's most accomplished chefs his calamari, sea bass and molten-chocolate torte are world-class. RIVIERA GRILL, 10655 Katy Freeway (SW3), 71. The walls are hung with paintings by local artists. Inventive cooking with Mexican, Asian and Italian influences some dishes are both healthful and flavorful. Superb seafood from the Gulf and other waters tremendous Wiener schnitzel irresistible desserts genteel service.
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Manfred Jachmich and Ethel Emerson Fisher have created a beautiful dining room and one of the city's most consistent kitchens. The restaurant excels with game such as pheasant and buffalo. Charming museum-area restaurant's food is bold, spicy and original, combining Louisiana influences with the Midwest and Wild West. Prices are moderate for such high-quality food. Chef/owner Mark Cox serves trendy European and American dishes in a striking Gothic setting. Specialties: mango-glazed Chilean sea bass, white-truffle risotto, foie gras, crabcakes. Charles Clark, one of Houston's most innovative and versatile chefs, is part-owner of this cheerful mid-town restaurant. IBIZA, 2450 Louisiana at McGowen (SW1), 71. The oyster pan roast and blackened grouper stand outL & D: Daily. Chef/owner Tom Williams has found a niche serving the distinctive fare of the Georgian and Carolina coasts. Trendy Midtown fusion restaurant excels with seafood, rotisserie chicken, salads and desserts. Brilliant appetizers and salads, excellent lamb stew, fine desserts. The New Mexico green chili is especially noteworthy, and other standout items on the eclectic menu include marinated pork chops, Tuscan white-bean ragout, meatball sandwich, turkey-stuffed poblano and Thai beef salad. While the sports-bar atmosphere is not particularly uplifting, the food can be ethereal. Clive Berkman's place is ideal for pre-theater, pre-concert meals, although service is up-and-down. The dining room is one of the most attractive in downtown Houston. Reasonable, well-chosen California wines. Specialties include salmon cakes, pheasant and seared trout. Surprisingly adventurous hotel dining in a luxurious setting. CHORON'S, Medical Center Marriott, 6500 Fannin (SW2), 71.